Basilica di San Miniato al Monte

It was a no-brainer; our plans for the day were finished and Florence’s #2 rated Trip Advisor attraction sat only half a mile away. Making the most of our time, we set off for the Basilica di San Miniato al Monte.

I should’ve known better. “Al monte” is practically the same in Italian as the Spanish phrase “of the mountain”. But without thinking, we set off for the basilica. Immediately, the following road greeted us.

Road to San Miniato al Monte

The path was a winding road up a mountain. Trip Advisor’s estimation of half a mile away was according to a straight line, and didn’t account for distance in elevation, winding paths, and blocked roads. This half a mile walk would up being about two miles uphill. Eventually, we arrived at Piazzale Michelangelo.

Florence Piazzale Michelangelo view

Piazzale Michelangelo is dedicated to the artist Michelangelo himself and features copies of his most famous works as well as stunning views of the city below.

Florence Piazzale Michelangelo view 2

Florence Piazzale Michelangelo view 3

It was 99 degrees in the square with no shade; we felt like we had hiked straight to the sun. Smiling for photos was almost unbearable.

piazzale michelangelo mama

piazzale michelangelo avery

We were now only two tenths of a mile away. We  set off, and after about 20 minutes arrived at the following church.

Red Herring Basilica

It wasn’t as grand as we expected for the #2 ranked attraction in Florence, but did we finally reach the end of our journey? As it turns out, no. It was a minor church, while the basilica stood many hundreds of steps uphill. Mama didn’t think she could make it, and said she would wait for us. But Zach and I wouldn’t let go; we would not let her sit back. Mama reluctantly began the arduous journey up to our destination.

Mama climbing stairs

At long last, we reached the salvation of the basilica gates. Mama couldn’t help but leap out in jubilation.

San Miniato Mama Unbound Joy

Zach at San Miniato final stairs

The inside of the basilica was grand, but didn’t particularly stand out against the basilicas in Rome. The main reason why this basilica is so highly reviewed is for the spectacular views outside.

San Miniato Avery and Mama

On the right side of the church sits a 1000+ year old Olivetan monastery.

San Miniato adjoining Olivetan Monastery

While on the left sits a chilling graveyard.

Top of San Miniato Avery

Despite all of the beautiful scenery, we were drop-dead tired.

Top of San Miniato Zach and Mama

So much so, that it was difficult to appreciate the beauty surrounding us. We had walked nearly 30,000 steps according to Mama’s pedometer, and our lower bodies felt every step.

Top of San Miniato Zach and Mama 2

Needless to say, we took a taxi home.

Pompeii & Herculaneum Ercolano

Even before I knew where it was located, I wanted to visit Pompeii. The Magic Tree House book series cemented this desire in elementary school, and it has stuck ever since. On our fourth day in Italy, this wish became a reality as we set out upon a self-guided day trip to Pompeii & Herculaneum Ercolano.

pompeii citrus

To get to Pompeii from Rome, you must first take the train to Napoli. The Frecciarossa train takes only hour, and is the quickest. In Napoli, find your way to Garibaldi Station/Piazza Garibaldi by following the ‘Circumvesuviana’ signs, and take the Napoli-Sorrento line to Pompeii Scavi.  It sounds more difficult than it really is.

pompeii architecture

While planning the trip, I had researched guided tours of Pompeii and found the majority of them to be 50-100 euros per person. We decided to figure it out when we were there, and ended up finding a wonderful guide by the entrance for only 6 euros each.

pompeii architecture 2

Mount Vesuvius’ eruption in 79 AD was not completely unheralded. It was preceded by at least three larger eruptions, knowledge of which was lost through the ages. Before the eruption in 79 AD, Vesuvius lay dormant for nearly 800 years and wasn’t even recognized as a volcano.

pompeii outskirts with mount vesuvius

Ancient Pompeii was a city of technological innovations, with treadmill-powered cranes, odometers and even an ancient social network.

pompeii scenery

pompeii pillars

Our guide even cracked the joke of Ancient Pompeii being the birthplace of Legos (see photo below ).pompeii architecture legos

During the eruption in 79 AD, Mount Vesuvius spewed a cloud of stone, ash, and fumes to a height of 20.5 miles. Ash was found as far away as Africa. It destroyed five cities including Pompeii and Ercolano, covering them in over 12 feet of tephra (ash).

Usually the wind around Mt. Vesuvius blows in a southwest direction, towards the Bay of Naples. But on this fateful day, the wind was blowing northwest – straight over Pompeii.

pompeii pottery with body

The ash did a remarkable job of preserving relics from Ancient Pompeii, particularly pottery. Three vast storerooms of relics are near the center of the city, with bodies nonchalantly perched between the art.

pompeii pottery with body (2)

Over 2000 died during the eruption, with the remaining 13-15 thousand becoming homeless and displaced.

pompeii ash body

And no Pompeii blogpost would be complete without a photo of the brothel entrance…

pompeii brothel

The  flowering trees are all that separate the ancient city of Pompeii from the modern, rebuilt city (2 km). Luckily, while Mount Vesuvius is Europe’s only mainland volcano, it hasn’t erupted since 1944.

pompeii outskirts To get from Pompeii to Ercolano, take the same Napoli – Sorrento train (but this time in the Napoli direction) until you reach Ercolano. Once at the train station, just walk down the town’s only main street.

herculaneum ercolano street

At the bottom sits Ercolano Scavi, which you can get an excellent bird’s-eye views of as you walk down. This city was buried even deeper than Pompeii during the eruption of 79 AD, covering most of the multi-level buildings in the town and preserving them intact.

herculaneum ercolano overview 2

The Herculaneum Ercolano excavation originally began in the 1700’s, but was indefinately postponed when Pompeii was discovered. Excavation begun once more in the 1980’s, and is still undergoing. We only saw about 10-15 other tourists while at the sight, which was a welcome change to the frantic tourism industry at Pompeii.

herculaneum ercolano overview

Below is a fresco that was restored after 1700 years of being buried at the site.

herculaneum ercolano fresco

Because no skeletons were found initially, archaeologists thought that most of the residents had managed to escape alive. These views were changed in 1981, when they found nearly 300 skeletons huddled together facing the sea – where they eventually met their demise.

herculaneum ercolano with vesuvius

3 Days in Rome Itinerary

Following is my itinerary used for 3 full days exploring Rome and Vatican City. This schedule visits all of Rome’s most popular spots in a convenient manner, including the Colosseum, Pantheon, and Trevi Fountain. For information on public transport in-between places, I strongly recommend using Google Maps to know which metro or bus to take.

Where to Visit on Day 1: 

  1. Colosseum
  2. Roman Forum
  3. Pantheon
  4. Trevi Fountain

Click here to view a map of day 1.

Notes:

  • Upon arrival into FCO Airport, purchase Roma Pass at PIT Fiumicino, International Arrivals Area (Terminal 3)
  • Use Roma Pass to skip lines and get into  Colosseum, Roman Forum, Palazzo Valentini, and a few other attractions as well as the subway and metro.
  • For Colosseum and Roman Forum, either join a guided tour, bring the Rick Steves guided audiotour,  or buy the official Colosseum audioguide (5.5 euros each). Bring your own earbuds.
  • Make sure you visit the Pantheon before they close at 7 pm.
  • Carry an empty water bottle around with you to fill up at all of the cities fountains.

Where to Visit on Day 2:

  1. Vatican City
  2. Catacombs of San Callisto (or any other neighboring Catacombs)
  3. Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls
  4. National Roman Museum

Click here to view a map of day 2.

Notes:

  • For our Vatican City tour, we used the 7 Hills company, which I strongly recommend.
  • The Catacombs close from 12-2 pm; take your time for lunch after the Vatican City tour.
  • The National Roman Museum stays open until 7:45 most nights, but if you’re feeling too tired you can always leave it out. Save plenty of energy for tomorrow!

Where to Visit on Day 3:

  1. Campo dei Fiori Market
  2. Church of San Luigi dei Francesi
  3. Church of Sant Ignazio
  4. Le Domus Romane di Palazzo Valentini
  5. Basilica di San Clemente (last excavation 5:40)
  6. San Giovanni in Laterano (6 pm)
  7. St. Peter in Chains (6:30 pm)

Click here to view a map of day 3.

Notes:

  • It looks like there’s too much planned on this day, but everything is fairly close together so it’s definitely do-able.
  • Campo dei Fiori is a tourist and local outdoor market that opens early in the morning. Try the pomegranate juice – it is freshly squeezed!
  • Le Domus Romane is an ancient ruin home made easily accessible through the use of modern light, video, and sound technology. While in the house, most of your time is spent on a clear glass floor looking down. Be sure to call them and book a day in advance to make sure you have a spot [included in Roma Pass].