Dane County Farmers’ Market
Favorite Places to Eat in Accra
Note: This list is dated as of 2012. Whether or not these places still exist, I cannot personally testify. Thank you and happy eating!
Between chop bars [local eateries with food ready-made] and fast food, local Ghanaian food is easy to get and delicious. For foreign foods, not so much. For the ex-pats visiting or living in Accra, knowing which eateries are worth visiting can be an issue. While I didn’t have time to visit every restaurant in Accra, the following were my favorites compiled throughout my stay in Ghana.
Amber Catering [$5-$10]
This eatery offers hands down the best filleted fish in Accra. The charcoal grilled grouper is tender, flaky, and very well seasoned. It’s so tasty that it is the only dish I ever ordered off the menu.
To get there from Koala Supermarket, walk down Oxford Street until you reach the Vodafone cross street. Turn left, and take the road until the end. You’ll see a Presbyterian church – this two-story restaurant is located across from it.
Arlecchino [$2-$3]
Accra’s premiere Oxford Street gelataria offers nearly 20 flavors. Personal favorites include mango, cashew, coconut, and dark chocolate.
Large groups should consider purchasing a container to share – it really saves money.
Eddys Pizza [$7-$15]
Located opposite Paloma Casino nearby Kwame Nkrumah Circle, this popular pizzeria serves massive pizzas, salads, and wings in a comfortable & friendly atmosphere. One large/jumbo pizza can easily serve 4-5, and is far better than any of the Pizza Inn chains.
Jasmine [$5+]
I came to Jasmine for the delicious Thai food, but stayed for the unbelievable friendliness of Toy,;the chef. Ask her for the $5 [10 cedi] lunch special even at dinnertime – it comes with plenty of food. Favorite dishes include summer rolls, drunken noodles, tom kah gai, and pad Thai. The noodles are truly outstanding.
To get here from Koala, turn right at Vodafone, and then left at the end of that cross street. It’s located just past Mama Mia Pizzaria.
Summer Rolls
Drunken Noodles
Koh-I-Noor [$2-5 appetizers, $4-8 entrés]
While Indian food is still not my favorite, this Osu restaurant helped change my mind. I absolutely adore their mint chutney sauce, especially when paired with samosas or naan bread.
Vegetable Samosas
Aloo Gobi & Garlic Naan
Farm [Vegetable] Curry
Nourish Lab Smoothy’s [$3 smoothies/$4 sandwiches]
This popular Oxford Street obruni hangout spot serves smoothies, paninis, and wraps in a relaxed environment. Smooth elevator music plays as patrons use free wifi – which in reality almost never works. Their 50+ varieties of smoothies are hit or miss – good advice is to avoid those with paw paw [papaya] and order those with berries.
The paninis come standard with ranch – if you want other dressings it’ll cost $0.50 extra.
Tip Top Chinese [$5 lunch, $6-8 dinner]
This Oxford Street restaurant offers fresh Asian food with plenty of vegetable and noodle options. The owner is very friendly, often helping me practice my [limited] Chinese. Try the chicken and mushroom soup appetizer – it is life changing.
Soup Noodles with Chicken and Mushrooms
Bird’s Nest [Crispy Fried Noodles]
Traffix Catering [$3-$4 upstairs, $8-$10 downstairs]
This restaurant [also the location of my internship] offers some of the tastiest local and Chinese food in Ghana. Their upstairs eatery offers some of the same food at a fraction of the price, but the tastiest part of this restaurant is the downstairs buffet. For $10 they serve eight dishes ‘all you can eat’. All of the Ghanaian meals have a ‘clean and pure’ taste to them – unlike many chop bars and street food.
I don’t have many photos of their food, but personal favorites include okra soup, light soup, and rice dishes with their garlic/ginger vegetable sauce.
Fried Rice with Chinese Chicken Sauce
YES Abroad Ghana: Coming Home
It’s been the better part of year since I left America for Ghana. 66 blog posts and 387 coconuts later, here I am!
I’ve bought my last souvenir, packed my suitcases to the brim, eaten my last fufu.
During the year I’ve thought about giving up and leaving early, missed my brother’s wedding, watched friends move on past their high school days.
Was the experience worth it? Do I really recommend it to others? If I could go back would I do it all again?
Despite all the troubles, I emphatically answer YES to all the above questions.
Being an exchange student for 10 months in a third world country can be rough. The distractions of keeping in touch with everyone from back home and traveling independently are great in the moment, but hurt in the end. Back in months 3-5, I was seriously considering packing my bags and heading home. The only thing that kept me going at that point was my blog.
What made my exchange worth it was the people. The realization that despite poverty, religion and skin color; we are all one people.
What of the chef who instructed me to go to the market and buy ingredients, most of which I’ve never even heard of? She’s my auntie. The wrinkly woman in the market selling bags of purified water for a nickel apiece? She’s my grandmother. And the other YES Abroad students/other AFS participants? They’re my brothers and sisters.
Blogging has been an imperfect window into my life abroad – many experiences simply cannot be articulated online. I don’t think any amount of writing can do justice to the beauty of the squalor that is Malata market. Neither can I explain what it’s like to have brothers all across the world, nor the feeling of comfort when sharing one bowl of soup using only right hands to eat. They are things one must experience for oneself.
People doubted my leaving America to come to Ghana. I doubted my leaving America to come to Ghana. Ghanaians were boggled that I would do such a thing.
It took 10 months, but the whole exchange is finally making sense. While I don’t think I can explain online what I gained from this experience, I will say this: Never forget to be grateful for everything you have.
To New YES students: Your experience has only just begun. Stereotypes thrive on ignorance; we are the 1{3a5a0fd47fd42b6497167aecc6170a94848f1ba936db07c4954344fcfff1d528}. We’ve lived with Muslim families for the better part of a year without hearing about bombs. s. And most of all, we’ve proved that Obruni or Obibini, black or white, Muslim or atheist, we are all human beings.
Let us think of ourselves as human beings; not defined by country lines, religion, or skin color. Superficialities beyond our control don’t define us; we are all human beings; citizens of the world.
I’d like to thank the State Department, everyone involved with YES Abroad, AFS Ghana, and the US Embassy for everything they’ve done. I believe in this scholarship’s mission, and will do everything I can to give back. Another thank you to my two outstanding host families. Finally, thank you to my fellow Americans for their support throughout this year. Drew, Adriana, Balthazar, Bany, Logan, and Kyla – I couldn’t have made it without you.
To Americans, Ghanaians, and YES Abroaders alike– Judge individuals rather than groups. Defy the status quo. If someone says “it’s impossible”, use their doubt as motivation to prove them wrong.
We will change the world.
Street Flooding in Accra
The rainy season is well underway in Ghana!
httpvh://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PlG_Vli6AyA
Yesterday afternoon, I left the house to eat at a local restaurant and then visit friends in Roman Ridge, where I used to live. Shortly after my plate of Thai noodles arrived, the power went out. I looked outside, noticing how ominous the sky had become during my meal.
I needed to get my bill ASAP. I looked around the dark restaurant for the waiter; he was nowhere to be seen.
As thunder continued to sound; I approached the door of the kitchen. I knocked several times, only to get no response from within. I gingerly opened the door, and found exactly what I was looking for. My waiter was sitting in a chair, with his head leaning against a desk. He was fast asleep. I cleared my throat, and he lurched awake. “Eii sorry-o,” he repeated several times.
After receiving my bill, I grabbed money from my wallet and quickly placed it on his bed [desk]. Rushing out of the kitchen, I grabbed my bag and reached for the door. But alas, my speed was in vain.
Zeus was having a major temper tantrum. The sky – bleak and gray – was lit up with continual flashes of lightning. The rain was coming down nearly sideways. A few brave souls could be seen outside covering their heads with plastic bags and dashing for the nearest bus stop.
Leaving the restaurant at this time would’ve been madness, so I sat and read The Dressmaker of Khair Khana for the next hour. As soon as there was a lull in the storm, I threw my Kindle in my man-bag and ran for the main road.
I underestimated the extent to which the storm had slowed. It was still pouring; in the 20 seconds it took me to reach the main road, my clothes were drenched. I tried flagging down a taxi, but none would stop because the right lane of the two-lane road was flooded.
It was raining so hard that it was difficult to keep my eyes open; I couldn’t keep waiting for a taxi on the side of the road. I ran for a balcony covering nearby, where several Ghanaians stood there waiting for the rain to finish. As I approached, they scooted over and made room. All eyes were on me, the obruni, as I proceeded to squeeze out a steady stream of water from my drenched clothing.
Over the next two hours, I stood under the balcony with the women and children [and recorded the video above]. I was soaked to the core and shivering from wind gusts. Nonetheless, I was kept amused by watching people make their way through the street. Schoolgirls waded through the water, holding their dresses high to not become dirty from the murky water. A ‘pure’ water seller balanced her bucket upside-down on her head to use as a makeshift umbrella. At one point a motorcycle driver sped through the flood water at 30+ MPH, creating a stream of water that rose high above his head.
At long last, the rain slowed to a drizzle. I said goodbye to my friends whom I shared the cover with, and waded through the knee-deep water to reach a trotro. I got off at my street junction, elated to finally make it home.
My heart sunk when my eyes beheld the following sight:
The above ‘river’ is the dirt road to my house. After unsuccessfully waiting for 30 minutes for the water to recede, I went to a internet cafe to waste the day away. At night I returned, found a taxi driver crazy enough to drive through foot-deep water to my driveway, and took a much-needed shower before falling fast asleep.
YES Abroad Ghana Q&A Part Two
To see the first Q&A, click here.
1. What are you doing once you return home?
I return home on July 3rd. After a long shower, I will [hopefully] be eating Israeli couscous served with mango chipotle salmon and sautéed brussels sprouts/asparagus.
After satisfying my taste buds, my plans for the summer are as follows:
July 5-10: Madison, WI
July 16-18: UF Preview
July 25-30: Chicago/Iowa
August 2-12: Seattle
Somewhere between August 18-22: Move to Gainesville for UF
2. Did your dreams change? I mean the ones you have during sleep.
Although I’m not entirely sure what the implications/meanings of this question are, I will say that I sleep like a rock here in Ghana. My brother Stanley always exclaims, “Eii Charlie; you can sleep Kwadwo!”
I hardly ever remember my dreams – besides the one from a couple of weeks ago where I lost an arm and had to beg on the streets to pay for my plane ticket home…
3. What was the scariest thing you experienced?
The infamous football mob. It was horrible; I am lucky to have escaped when I did.
4. What is the one event you will remember for a lifetime?
Besides my encounters with a spider and story from Cape Coast, I have to mention the women of Malata market will forever be in my heart.
I love them all, which is why I have formally accepted marriage proposals from no less than four women. Polygamy aside, they are fantastic people. They live in squalor – selling vegetables here and there for coins. But they are some of the most sincere, gentle, and kind women I’ve met. They pamper me – treating me with samples, special deals, and often giving me produce for free despite being fully aware that I am capable of paying 10 cents for a papaya. I will truly miss my ‘Sisters’ and ‘Aunties’ of Malata market.
5. How has your experience in Craig Price’s improv comedy classes helped you with communication, friendships, interpersonal relationships and your overall experience in Ghana?
In general, I see life as improvisation. No matter what your job [lawyer, salesman, dentist, or teacher] there is some level of improvisation involved.
My stay in Ghana has been all about putting myself out there. Just by being white, I automatically get an abnormal amount of attention. I am often the first American that Ghanaians have ever met or spoken with. Being seen abroad creates impressions of your country; it’s up to you whether they are positive or negative.
I will say that my puns [which I practiced in Craig’s improvisation classes] have a tendency to hurt relationships with Ghanaians. They are almost never understood, leading to awkwardness.
5. How do you think you’ll reaclimate to American culture? What challenges do you foresee?
Quite honestly, I think I’ll re-adjust very easily. I don’t foresee any major challenges, just the following minor ones:
- Air conditioning will be freezing.
- Life without owning a car isn’t nearly as easy in Florida.
- I’ve started mixing up Spanish and Twi with my limited knowledge of Korean and Chinese.
- Trying to catch up with movies. I can’t wait for The Hunger Games, Madagascar 3, The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, and Rock of Ages.
- I cannot imagine living without hawkers on the street selling food and water in baskets on their heads. Seriously… what happens if I get hungry or thirsty on the road?!
6. Do you have any tips for those going to Ghana next year with YES?
Let your host family know straight from the beginning what you want to get out of the experience, and [if] you plan on traveling independently. Don’t assume anything; tell them up front why you’re here and what your expectations are. Ask for your family’s feelings and expectations as well. Every family has a reason for hosting you; they don’t get paid for doing it. Know their expectations and balance them with yours. If expectations conflict, sit down and have a good talk with your family. Try to understand why they act the way they do.
On the subject of school, know that after completing high school Ghanaians do not receive their diploma. They first must pass the WASCE – the Ghanaian version of the SAT. It is pass or fail; failing can ruin your life. Teachers will teach ‘to the textbook’, in the manner of rote memorization. It may seem like they’re not teaching, but that is what’s required to pass their final exams. It can be brutal, one reason I personally switched to catering school. But according to Kyla, “I made a lot of really great friends that otherwise I wouldn’t have gotten to know so well. It ended up being very rewarding sticking with school.”
Exchange is a test – of ups and downs. Days vary between wonderful, horrible, and everything in-between. Know your limits and don’t be afraid to politely speak up. If you don’t get what you want out of your host year, you have only yourself to blame.
At the end of the year, you’ll be shocked at how fast it flew by. There will be rough spots [months 3-5 personally], but part of the experience is learning to endure. You’ll come out all the better.
[hr]
I want to give a shoutout to my favorite AFS Frenchman, Balthazar. He left Ghana yesterday, after finishing his year program. When I met Balthy in the Amsterdam airport, we could hardly understand each other and I had to repeat anything I said at least 3-4 times for him to understand.
Fast forward 10 months, I am amazed. His newfound ability to speak and understand English as well as ‘pull-off’ wearing tres chic scarves is shocking. His humor transcends the language barrier, and he’s been a great friend. But above all he was, and always will be, my bro.
Thank you to everyone who has kept in touch throughout my year abroad. I realize it’s tough doing that from halfway across the world, and I sincerely appreciate the effort.
~Avery
YES Abroad Ghana: Last Month Q&A
1. When do you come home?
I leave Ghana on June 30th and have a return orientation in Washington D.C. I return to Naples on July 3rd.
2. Do you want to come home?
In most ways I do. That being said, certain places in Ghana seem like home to me. I feel like part of the family at Malata market and around Roman Ridge [where I lived with my first family]. As soon as I visit both places, the sound of women yelling “Kwadwo” fills the air, and I am greeted with hugs and adoration.
Nonetheless, I am excited for the convenience of Whole Foods Market and not having to shower out of a bucket.
3. What will your first three meals be in Naples?
Meal #1: Israeli couscous with mango glazed sockeye salmon accompanied by sautéed brussels sprouts and asparagus.
Meal #2: Toasted ‘everything’ bagel with freshly made pesto and smoked whitefish, topped with sliced tomato and avocado.
Meal #3: Siam Thai Cafe – Pad kee mao [rice noodles with a basil sauce] and massaman curry with extra broccoli.
4. How are you spending your final weeks in Ghana?
Now that I am finished with Flair Catering, I have begun a two-week internship with Trafix Catering. This popular restaurant and catering service is located in the National Theater, seen below.
Since I already know how to cook the majority of Ghanaian and Continental dishes, I am waiting tables and generally making friends with the Ghanaians. It’s great being able to use Twi to interact with Ghanaians and share my experiences with them. I also love watching the occasional obruni customer [attempt to] eat local dishes without silverware.
After my internship ends, I will be going on a final trip to Takoradi before ultimately preparing for my departure.
5. Did you ever get sick in Ghana?
Besides one episode of food poisoning, no. I love Ghana; I don’t even have my usual morning allergies here! As far as food poisoning is concerned, I strongly recommend future visitors to NEVER eat salad sold on the street.
6. Do you think you’ll miss the ‘foreign’ experience enough that you may want to eventually live in another country?
I have no problems with living abroad, provided I can find stable internet connections. But unless my future job calls for it, America is one of the best places in the world to live… despite the recent cannibalism/zombie apocalypse trend.
7. How has this trip changed you?
For better or worse, I see myself as:
- More eager to see the world.
- More likely to eat my weight in broccoli during my first week in America.
- More likely to question the status quo [aka complain].
- More easygoing; things often turn out for the better when you don’t plan them.
- More blunt; eating around the bush wastes time.
- More likely to stop and ask for directions.
- More patriotic; most Americans don’t realize how truly lucky they are. Back home, parents raise kids telling them that they can be ‘anything they want to be’. For the most part, it’s true. For children abroad, it isn’t.
- And finally, less scared of boa constrictors:
8. Will you cook for me?
Sure thing Aunt Liz! I’ve already found several websites to buy the common Ghanaian ingredients online.
Get ready Americans; you’re about to get your first taste of fufu, palm nut soup, pollo, and a bunch of other Ghanaian goodies!
If you have any other questions you’d like to see answered, leave them in the comments section below.
Aboakyer Festival
Aboakyer, also known as the ‘deer hunting festival’, is organised in honor of the tribal God of Winneba. In this festival, Penkye Otu, their God, receives the sacrifice of a deer. During last week’s AFS trip to the Central Region, we had the fabulous opportunity to experience the climax of this festival.
The Aboakyer festival originated about three hundred years ago, when Winneba was first settled. The people believed they were only able to establish their homes through the instrumentality of their God – who still protects the people of Winneba. This festival expresses their gratitude towards him.
Initially, human beings from the royal family were sacrificed. But as the royal family slowly died out, the people pleaded with their God to accept a live leopard. The God agreed, and for some time live leopards were offered.
But over time, the leopards injured many and claimed several lives. The people made a desperate appeal to Penkye Otu to accept deers instead of leopards. Legend says that Penkye Otu accepted their request because the blood of deer and leopards is similar to that of man.
The Aboakyer festival involves two groups in Winneba, the Tuafo and the Dentsifo . They compete among themselves to go into the bush and be the first group to catch a deer.
The festival begins in the evening with a brass band marching through the streets of Winneba, singing and dancing. The whole town seems to be involved in the parade, and it goes on as far as the eye can see.
The next day consists of rituals. Libations are poured, prayers are said, and ceremonial guns are fired. The Tuafo and Dentsifo men purify themselves by bathing at the beach. Priests shave their heads and smear themselves with oil. Members of each group offer sacrifices to ancestral spirits for help in the following day’s deer hunt.
The next morning, both groups march to Penkye Otu’s shrine to have roots and herbs be sprinkled on them to ensure their safe return from the hunt. They smear themselves with clay, and wear protective charms and amulets.
After seeing the Omanhene [supreme traditional ruler], they begin hunting for deer. The first group to go is the Tuafo. Armed with only clubs, the group with the first catch rushes back home with war songs and shout of victory. The deer is presented to the Omanhene who places his bare right foot three times on it. After completing this ritual, the deer is lifted up and carried through the town streets by singing and dancing men. Their destination is the shrine of Penkye Otu.
The final act of the festival involves the Tuafo and the Dentsifo coming together before their God to sacrifice the deer.
According to mystics if the first group, the Tuafo, catches the first deer there will be peace and prosperity in the coming group. But if it is caught by the second group, it will be a year of famine and war.
A last word… I’m not really sure why – but many men at the festival could be seen dressing as women. I asked several people for the reasoning for this, but nobody knew. “Whatever,” I thought. “If you’re willing to run into the bush and kill deers with clubs, there’s no reason to question your manhood.”
[hr]
Click here to see more photos taken at the Aboakyer festival.
My Kente Quilt
I’ve wanted to buy a kente quilt [read: blankey] ever since coming to Ghana, but have held off due to the high cost of the fabric and not knowing who to buy from. But last week at Tafi Abuife the kente was plentiful, the price was right, the stars were aligned, and I just couldn’t resist.
The following patterns, passed down through multiple generations, were selected for my quilt. Despite appearing simplistic, each of these abstract designs take 5-9 hours to complete a two yard strip. Altogether, the nine strips of kente I chose took a whopping 62 hours to weave.
Steps (Togbe) :
Birds (Afala) :
Hills & Sugarcane (Eto) :
Our People’s Footpath (Mat) :
Life’s Direction (Mor) :
Unity (Ashe) :
Unity #2 (Dekaworwor) :
After paying Aikins for the cloth, we rode motorcycle taxis over to a well-named tailoring shop in a neighboring village.
Mary, an extremely nice seamstress, began sewing the kente cloth together strip by strip. 
Earlier that day, I had carefully arranged the kente strips to make an evenly laid out design with a very diversified color scheme. It was a very nice layout, but I forgot to tell this to Mary. She stitched the strips together according to what she thought would look good, which I was completely okay with. After all, she’s the expert! 
After 45 minutes, Mary finished sewing my quilt without breaking a sweat [or removing her hair curlers].
The end product looks decidedly more original and ‘African’ than the almost symmetrical layout I had planned, and I am glad that I ‘let’ a Ghanaian arrange the kente design. 
Special thank you to Chris & Aikins for introducing me to their wonderful village.
Tafi Abuife Kente Village
httpvh://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_o68hQB9rm4
Kente weaving is an ancient art, its roots dating before 3000 B.C. This past week Drew, Adriana, and I visited the largest kente village in Ghana – Tafi Abuife.
Aikins, our friendly guide, gave us a tour around the village of 3000. Every child is taught the art of weaving kente upon reaching the age of seven – as a birthright, responsibility, and means of making money. The ‘click clack’ sound of looms can be heard across the village.
Kente weaving was inspired by intricate spider webs in the ancient forests of Ghana. Legend says that two hunters found an exceptional web, and studied its designs and patterns for two days. Afterwards, they returned to their village to implement what they had seen. Kente was known as the ‘cloth of kings’ due to the cost and time required to weave it. Even with modern-day technology, it is still woven by hand. Each strip is classified by the number of weaves used to make it. A single weave takes five hours to complete, a double weave takes seven hours, and a triple weave takes a whopping nine hours.
Everything about kente is symbolic – the colors, symbols, and geometric designs. Common designs include those of unity, birds, hills, and our footprints as human beings.
My favorite part of the tour was getting to see the ‘weaving houses.’ These sweatshop-like buildings were built by the government to ensure that kente could still be produced during the rainy season. There are three of these buildings in all.
Kente sellers were eager for us to try on their goods to potentially make a sale. Their tactics worked; I now own the two satchels seen in the photo below.
All in all, it was great seeing kente being produced firsthand. I would have loved to stay overnight in the village for a weaving apprenticeship, but my time was limited. But that didn’t keep me from ordering a custom-made kente blanket, the subject of tomorrow’s post!
What Money Can’t Buy
Cape Coast Castle, a nearly 500-year-old slave castle, sits on the edge of the picturesque Atlantic ocean. From my seat in the Castle Restaurant, I gazed at the enormous waves crashing onto the rocky shore – while eagerly awaiting my bowl of coconut curry.
The rocks on the shore formed a natural staircase, winding around the back of the castle. Six foot waves crash into the rocks, flinging wide-eyed crabs high in the air. The previous day, Drew and I attempted climbing around the rocks – but we made the mistake of going barefoot. After 30 minutes we gave up, our feet begging for mercy.
After several minutes of staring absentmindedly into the ocean, I noticed a figure move from the shadows of the castle towards the main rocks. His legs were scantily thin, his face gaunt, and his clothes noticeably ill-fitting. The man’s face had a distinct five ‘oclock shadow. But despite all the telltale signs of him living in some form of poverty, his stride had a certain ‘bounce’ to it.
I watched the man as he strode towards the puddles lying on top of the rocky shore. Wasting no time, he removed his clothes and began to bathe himself. Having nothing to use as a washcloth or sponge, he used his muscular hands to voraciously scrub his skin. After several minutes of washing himself [without any soap], he was finished. He dunked his face in the water several times, giving off the energy of a new man.
He paused for a few seconds, staring into the horizon. He wore nothing except his self-pride. The man proceeded to carefully wash his clothes in the sea. He had no change of clothes, so he dressed himself with the damp clothing, and began walking away.
Somewhere in the middle of this, a traditional drumming band started their daily rehearsal. The rich beats and intense chanting breathed new life into the ancient castle. The crabs scurried on the rocks; the waves were energized; the air somehow became lighter.
The last I ever saw of the man was him dancing behind the castle.