April Ghana Updates

1. Birthdays: A certain optimist said the following quote regarding birthdays. “Birthdays are great, it’s when everyone tells you they’re happy you were born. Soak it up and be thrilled that you’re alive, that you’re so dank, that you have an awesome life and that it’s going to get even better.”

I tend to be a pessimist regarding birthdays. I prefer giving gifts [usually handmade/written] to people, and never seem to appreciate receiving gifts as much as I enjoy giving them – as cliché as it sounds. The words ‘happy birthday’, particularly when said on Facebook, seem more of an obligation than genuine.

Regardless, this year’s birthday went pretty well. After spending the morning on the 19th ingesting ‘The Da Vinci Code’, I crawled out of my bed at lunchtime and went to a PC cafe. There I received e-mails from Drew and Bany urgently begging me to  come to the AFS office to help plan trips.

Recognizing their message as a birthday ploy to surprise me with either dancers, apple turnovers, or an impromptu Bruno Mars concert – I continued using my computer. But after an hour of wasting time on YouTube, I decided to give in. I walked to the AFS office, sat down, and pretended to be surprised when Drew, Bany, and Balthazar came out with a cake. It was surprisingly tasty, unlike most ‘Western’ baked goods available in Ghana.

2. Traveling: While Mama was here, we visited Cape Coast, Hohoe and Kumasi. But two days per city wasn’t nearly enough, so I am planning return trips to each of those cities. In Hohoe I will be going on a cruise of the Volta Lake – where most of Ghana’s tilapia come from. I’ll also be returning to the Tafi Atome monkey sanctuary and hiking to Wli’s upper falls.

3. More Adventurous Eating: …Where do I begin? I’m a huge fan of Andrew Zimmern, despite being raised by macrobiotic pescatarians. As Zimmern says, “one perfectly normal meal  for one culture is easily considered ‘bizarre’ to the next”. One example is the American concept of eating meat. Here in Ghana, you don’t eat large quantities of meat (i.e. a steak dinner, meal of chicken nuggets, etc). Small quantities of meat are always accompanied with larger amounts of grains – usually rice.

‘Bizarre’ is a relative word.  Some think large quantities of meat are bizarre, others may think eating guineafowl, tilapia heads, and bushmeat is bizarre.

The guineafowl I recently ate was grilled whole, then separated into pieces in a takeaway container.  The meat was moister than chicken, and had a deeper/gamey flavor. Guineafowl have no fat and are relatively small. Most of the bones are edible, and actually taste  quite delicious. But after 10 minutes of chewing bones, my jaw became sore and I had to stop.

When I refer to ’tilapia heads’, my parents are probably thinking that I mean the tilapia ‘collars’. Collars are the most flavorful and moist meat – located on the top of the fish. Instead, the meat I’m talking about tasting is located within the head. A Ghanaian showed me how to properly crush the head by pushing in, and extract the extremely small, pea sized tilapia brain. It tasted rather pithy/sandy, but it is the prized piece of  fish for Ghanaians.

Finally, I tasted grasscutter for the first time yesterday. Grasscutters are essentially rats that live in the African bush, and grow to be up to 20 pounds.

It was smoked and part of a soup called ‘green green’. To me it tasted slightly of sage. The only issue I had with it was that some pieces tasted better than others – supposedly because of the way they are smoked. The leg meat tasted horribly of formaldehyde, but the upper body was delicious.

4. Awaiting Too Much To Do: This is driving me crazy. My to-do list is steadily growing, and it’s composed almost entirely of things that I cannot accomplish due to distance from home and terrible Ghanaian internet. This is one of the primary disadvantages of taking a gap year.

Current To-Do List:

1.  Buy a car and figure out the best way to get car insurance.
2. Schedule my UF orientation.
3.  Possibly work on planning a road trip to visit friends in Tennessee, Iowa & Chicago.
4. Figure out where I’ll be living in Gainesville (somewhere off-campus…)
5. Plan trips in Ghana – Return to Hohoe, Northern Ghana, Cape Coast, fabric shopping in Kumasi, and the Koforidua bead market.
6. Finish reading every book by Dan Brown.

	

Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary

httpv://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3JBfWyNpQg

Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary is easily one of the most fantastic places I’ve been to in Ghana.  After spending the night nearby at Wli waterfall, we bought $2 of bananas, hopped in a taxi, and made our way to the monkeys. These little guys awaited us…

A bit of history about the monkey sanctuary:

With the spread of Christianity in Ghana,  the Traditionalist belief of worshipping animals became a taboo. With people no longer viewing animals as sacred, they killed the monkeys in Tafi Atome to near-extinction.

In 1993, John Mason, became the director of ecotourism. He convinced the villagers of the economic benefits of protecting the monkeys, and the Monkey Sanctuary has been in existence since then.

The monkeys we saw were adult mona monkeys. As soon as the monkeys discovered us, the leader ‘claimed Mama’ by peeing on her head from a distant tree above us. Somehow he knew that she was the only female in our group, despite being high above us. Logan and I saw this happening, but we were too stunned to tell her to move.

Mona monkeys travel in families, which consist of 30-50 monkeys.  There are five families in Tafi Atome.

The female monkeys have kangaroo-like pouches that hold their babies inside.

Bananas don’t grow naturally in their forest, so the monkeys go crazy when tourists visit. After 15 minutes of feeding the slightly-aggressive adult monkeys, the guide took us further into the forest and started calling the younger ones. With bananas as incentives, these monkeys jumped all over our arms and shoulders in pursuit of the precious fruit. Logan was awestruck when he made his first  monkey friend.

Followed by his second…

Eventually, the monkeys  couldn’t get enough of him.

Soon the monkeys discovered Mama.

Her monkey-butt disgust quickly succumbed to laughter.

And gradually, she began enjoying the monkeys’ presence and tried to converse with them.

Now onto my reactions. At first, being jumped on by monkeys overwhelmed me just as it did Logan and Mama before me. [Please ignore my 4 chins.]

I came to love my four-legged friends, and can’t wait until my next visit to the sanctuary [or until I own one as a pet!]

Flair: Weeks 4 & 5

While in previous weeks I might take the back seat in cooking classes to Ghanaian helpers, my ability to multitask has noticeably improved. Lately I have been able to take on more meal components and complete them with greater efficiency. I also broke down [half] of a chicken for the first time this week.

Practicals Day 7:

Baked Pollo

I first tasted pollo in November, and it has since become one of my favorite street foods. My only problem was it being difficult to find – but that’s solved now that I can make it for myself!

I bought the coconuts whole,  forgetting to ask the seller to crack them and remove the outer skin.  The result was half an hour of work hitting them against the wall and flaking away the meat with a knife the next day. Afterwards, we grated the meat to mix with the pollo dough.

Pollo is thick and dense, but a winner thanks to the heavenly taste of the coconut and vanilla extract. This is one biscuit I’ll absolutely be making in the States.

Red Red (Bean Stew with Fried Plantain)

Despite its deliciousness, bean stew does not photograph well. The flavors that shine are the earthiness of the local black-eyed peas and the smokey flavor of the tuna.

The trick to frying plantains is starting with the oil not being excessively hot. As the plantain cooks, one should gradually raise the heat so that the oil will cook itself out of the plantain. A properly fried plantain is not greasy.

Practicals Day 8:

Fried Pollo

The fried pollo was lighter and fluffier than the baked version, but far inferior in the taste department. The recipe in my cookbook was not written correctly; the mixture ended up being too wet. This issue was solved by adding more flour, but then the quantities of the other ingredients were screwy.

Groundnut Soup with Omo Tuo

I’m not even going to bother attaching my photos; my groundnut soup and omo tuo (rice balls) were not pleasant on the eyes .

Groundnuts are peanuts; groundnut soup is actually peanut butter soup. While I enjoy the flavor of this soup, I find it to be too heavy for my tastes. I prefer the sauces in Thai curries, where the peanut butter is diluted with coconut milk. Groundnut soup  feels thick and dense in my stomach. The soup is flavored with salt, cayenne, stock, and shrimp/herring powder. I personally think that a spoonful of brown sugar would have worked wonders in the soup, but I didn’t have any at the time.

Omo tuo is rice cooked until soft, pounded, and shaped into balls. Unlike last week’s banku, I was able to shape the omo tuo by myself.  Obrunis tend to love omo tuo since it is one of the few non-fermented starches around.

Practicals Day 9:

Egg and Koobi Stew

The difference between this stew versus an ‘ordinary’ Ghanaian stew is the added ‘Oomph’ from using extra curry powder. My only complaint was that I didn’t wash the koobi enough. Koobi is tilapia packed with salt and dried in the sun for days; washing it three times wasn’t nearly enough. The high salt levels made the fish nearly inedible. The stew was great though.

 Coconut Shortbread Cookies

Excess grated coconut from the pollo was  lightly browned in the oven, and the cookies were rolled in it before baking.

These cookies were extremely rich, crumbly, and delicious from the toasted coconut. I ate roughly 1/3 of them, and brought the rest home to my new host family. They were gone by the following morning.

A Spider Story

Forward: This story is dedicated to 2012-2013 YES semi-finalist Astrid L., who posted the following status on Facebook yesterday.

Spider in my bed. It got away.

No sleep tonight.

Daily Journal – March 11th, 2012

During the final night of our three-day stay at the Green Turtle Lodge, our group stayed in a self-contained room due to the dormitories being occupied. The room featured two beds with an extra mattress on the floor for the extra person.

Note the $200 painting on the left side of the room.

I ‘dibbed’ the mattress on the floor during the bus ride to Takoradi since I had to share beds on the last two trips and was the [unofficial] leader of the group.  The mattress’ mosquito net was malfunctioning, but the bugs weren’t bothering me. I took off my glasses, and soon fall fast asleep.

I was dreaming of lions when I heard my name being urgently whispered. I groaned at the noise. The whispers quickly morphed into shouts.

“AVERY – GET UP!” Bany screeched as she pounded my shoulders.

“Go to sleep,” I croaked – shading the light from my eyes. Slowly I rolled over to ignore her, and face the wall.

“Dude – move,” stated Drew bluntly.

I groaned and mustered together enough effort to open my eyes. Gee golly gosh – was I glad I did so! Standing less than one foot from my head was a spider staring me dead in my eyes. It was roughly two inches big, and had an orange streak on its midsection.

I got up from the bed immediately. The spider didn’t move. I looked around the room for a weapon to use against my six-legged foe. I ultimately settled upon Adriana’s size 13 sandals.

I approached the spider like a ninja. Once I was within striking distance, I paused. After thinking, I decided that the best tactic would be to launch a quick attack and suddenly swing the shoe at the spider so it wouldn’t have the opportunity to crawl away.

Zeus must’ve fainted; tragedy struck. I swung the shoe too quickly and lost control of it. It slammed against the floor, and the spider scurried off the mattress, onto the wall, and behind the $200 painting on the wall.

A note – $200 is a ridiculous  price for a painting in Ghana. I bought a large 3×2 foot painting for $40 after bartering, and  could’ve gotten it for cheaper if I was with a Ghanaian. The $200 painting at the Green Turtle was smaller than the one I bought myself, and was five times more expensive.

Regardless, the spider stood behind the painting – and I didn’t want to sleep on the floor until it was vanquished.

Bany, the El Salvadoran that she is, stood up and nonchalantly lifted up the painting. The spider wasn’t on the wall behind it. We sat puzzled for a moment, as our eyes were glued to the wall the entire time and there was no hole for the spider to crawl in. Bany flipped the painting around to take a look at the other side.

Hell broke loose. Sitting on the back of the canvas was three spiders. Adriana shrieked, and Drew cried to the heavens for help.  The next couple of seconds were a blur; the result somehow ended up as a shoe being thrown at the painting. Bany jumped and let go of the artwork which crashed to the floor. The spiders scurried away unscathed.

Needless to say, I didn’t sleep a wink.

[hr]

If you haven’t done so already, become a subscriber to my blog to receive an e-mail notification every time there’s a new post.

-Avery

P.S: The painting ended up intact – after brushing off the dirt 🙂

Ghana Sea Turtle Sighting

This past weekend, our Accra AFS group returned to the Green Turtle eco-lodge. This is my favorite place to relax in Ghana – it’s located right on the beach and has some of the best food in Ghana. During our first trip to Takoradi, we participated on a sea turtle walk to no avail. But with this trip, our luck took a change for the better.

We had just finished dinner when we noticed a group of people gathering on the beach. We joined them to see what was happening. It turns out that the Green Turtle employs six people to patrol the beach every night to deter turtle poachers and collect research. On this particular night, an olive ridley sea turtle had been spotted by the lodge staff. We walked along the coast, and five minutes later, we saw the following turtle:

The olive ridley turtle was roughly two feet long. We were told not to take photos while she was laying her eggs due to the flash. After she was finished, she used her flippers to cover them up with the sand. The motion was archaic, clumsy, and reminded me of a dinosaur for some reason. I was standing so close watching that she even flicked sand all over my jeans.

After the pile was covered, the guide informed us that it was okay for us to take photos. Instantly, an obruni papparazzi barraged the poor sea turtle. The flashes were so bright that I had to look away for a few moments. Eventually the turtle started crawling towards the flash – distracted by the light (or trying to attack us for blinding it).

Right before the turtle reached the water, I jumped nearby and had Drew take a photo of me.

The turtle was very slow going out to the sea. It would take a few steps, and then rest for some time before continuing its journey. After several minutes, it reached the water and gracefully swam away.

The following day we returned to take photos of the path the turtle took.

All photos taken by Drew W.


	

Flair Catering School: Week Three

After two weeks of making exclusively Ghanaian foods, I was ready for a break. In week three I learned how to prepare a hodge-podge of breakfast foods, and later catered an Italian feast for the birthday of my AFS friend Bany.

Practicals Day 5:

Pineapple Jam

Pineapple jam was actually very easy to make, and far superior to the one available in the market. All it required was grating pineapple in a pot with water, lemon juice, sugar, and a few cloves.

Nothing else was added. The jam consistency was achieved simply by boiling the fruit for over two hours to eliminate most of the water.

As you can see from the above picture, more than half of the juice was boiled away. No thickeners were added. The jam was very fruity and delicious, but the added sugar was too much since the pineapples were very ripe. Next time I’ll half the sugar, or try making the jam using local honey.

Dinner Rolls

This was the first time I had ever kneaded dough. Some of my classmates were shocked when I said that back home I usually buy pre-made pizza dough at Publix or Whole Foods.

It took me a while to find the rhythm of kneading. While I was doing so, Ghanaians stared at me – shocked at a white man doing such work.

Eggs Six Ways

By my request, I leaned six different ways to prepare eggs. Eggs are something new to my diet since arriving in Ghana, and I actually enjoy them prepared almost every way:

  • Omelette – My favorite preparation, especially with added onions, sweet peppers, and tomatoes.
  • Sunny Side Up – Also great, although the texture of the egg white was puzzling at first. It’s amazing how versatile eggs are.
  • Soft Boiled – My favorite out of the boiled.
  • Hard Boiled – Not bad, I just find the yolk a bit too dry.
  • Boiled (in the shell) – At first, I really liked the soft and liquidy texture of the egg seasoned with the black pepper inside. But as I ate more and more, I enjoyed it less and less. After eating roughly half of the egg, I stopped as I was starting to feel nauseous.
  • Poached – The white was very good, but the yolk felt as though it was still raw. I gagged through one, and gave the second away.
I ate a grand total of eight eggs that day; three for breakfast/lunch, and two to go with my rice for dinner. What can I say; I didn’t want them to go bad! I’m not kidding when I say that my favorite part of culinary school is getting to eat everything I make…
Don’t poached eggs look mystical?!

Practicals Day 6

Minestrone Soup

While I’ve made minestroni soup many times before, this was the first time I was given a recipe to follow for it. I chopped potatoes, cabbage, carrots, and spring onions very small, added them at the end of the soup so they would keep their freshness.
The result was nothing spectacular. I preferred to add more vegetables, pasta, and beans to the soup – but I was told to keep it simple. While it got great reviews from my fellow YES students, I felt it tasted like canned soup…
Garlic Knots
To make these, I started with dinner roll dough and shaped them into knots. After they were halfway baked, I brushed them with a mixture of olive oil, fresh garlic, Italian herbs, and salt.
No telling Mama, but these knots were actually better than hers! The freshly made dough was extraordinarily light and fluffy, while the herbs added another layer of flavor to the garlicyness. I made eight large knots for six people, and they were gone within minutes.
Spaghetti Marinara

I’m starting to really appreciate spaghetti marinara.  It’s simple enough to be made in minutes, yet extremely delicious.

An added bonus is that I can throw in ‘the kitchen sink’ of vegetables and it only enhances the flavor. Today I used fresh zucchini (squash), tomatoes, cabbage, onion, garlic, tomatoes, sweet peppers, cauliflower, and basil I had bought from the market. The vegetables were much-loved by everyone, seeing as how they are notably absent from the standard Ghanaian diet.

My teacher, Auntie Charity, had never tasted spaghetti marinara before. She took a small bite, and her eyes opened wide; I could  immediately tell that she loved it. She stifled a cough, and told me to add a little salt to the dish. After following her advice, she asked me to make her a plate so she could further ‘check the seasoning’.

Happy 17th birthday Bany!

Flair Catering School: Week Two

During week two of catering classes, I learned Ghanaian dishes including two classic stews, some amazing deep-fried street food, and a traditional (and very delicious) hibiscus drink.

Practicals Day 3:

Akpiti & Adunlei

Both akpiti (left) and adunlei (right) are made of a deep-fried, unfermented corn flour.

Adunlei (monkey tails)
Akpiti are rolled into ovals and covered with groundnuts (peanuts).

Mama always said that if you deep fried a shoe, it’d taste good. And while I have yet to taste a deep-fried shoe, the theory of anything deep-fried tasting delicious has yet to be proven wrong.

The adunlei was far superior to the akpiti in my eyes. The adunlei’s crust was crispy, while the inside was light and fluffy. This is definitely something I’ll be making back home – when my cholesterol is feeling low.

Kontomire Stew

The egg-like mixture seen in the above stew is actually pounded agushie (melon seeds), fried in palm oil.

Kontomire (taro leaves) remind me of a mild kale.

I also used koobi – a tilapia covered with salt and dried in the sun for days. After boiling and stewing, it was perfectly scrumptious.

Final Meal:

Practicals Day 4:

Bisarp Drink

The hibiscus flowers pictured above were boiled for 15 minutes with half of a prekese pod. The deep burgundy colored mixture was then strained and finished by mixing in ginger, sugar syrup, whole dried cloves, and freshly squeezed lemon and orange juice. The flavor was that of a very robust tea – the ginger and cloves were outstanding.

Okro Stew

For this stew, okro and garden eggs (similar to eggplants) were sliced and sauteed together.

Crabs, salmon, tuna, and koobi were added along with onions, palm oil, and tomatoes. My teacher told me to make sure to buy the live crabs, since I don’t know when the dead ones had died. The live crabs were placed in a plastic bag and put in my backpack; until I got home, I kept checking to make sure they were still in there.

The dish was served with banku – fermented corn and cassava dough.

Stirring the banku dough while it was on the fire was very difficult – a superhuman feat in my opinion. After I failed miserably, a Ghanaian classmate took over, yielding the following end result.

To be honest, okra stew is not my favorite dish. It’s not the slimy texture that puts me off – I just feel as though it uses too many flavors and fails to mold together into one cohesive dish.

Below are two  classmates who helped me on day three of practicals.

Note: I did not grow a ‘banku belly’; the shirt I was wearing was too big for me…

Napkin Folding and Table Setting

What an exciting article title! I wouldn't be surprised if some of you didn't even click out on this article because of it. Heck – I wouldn't! If I were you I would be muttering angry words about me because of this blog post. "Couldn't that Obruni think of anything interesting to write about? I mean – napkin folding and table setting?! He's in Ghana for pete's sake! What's next – a video of watching paint dry?"

My answer: Yes…. that's exactly what's coming up next.

httpvh://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqmBpXxWZYs

In all seriousness, today's class on napkin folding and table setting was fascinating. I added six new napkin folds to my repertoire, and learned all about table etiquette and the technical aspects of catering.

From left to right: Sundae glass, brandy balloon, pilsner glass, slim jim glass, saucer, tulip glass, white wine glass, red wine glass, Paris goblet, and all purpose glass. Each glass serves only certain types of drinks, for a special purpose. For instance, wine glasses have their stems so that your hand does not warm the glass, while the brandy balloon curves in to capture the aroma of the drink.

I swear I could remember the names of all these spoons earlier today! Again, each has its own purpose.

Now onto table setting. If you sat down to the following plate, would you know how many courses you would be served?

The answer: three courses – bread on the left plate with a soup in the center. Those plates and the spoon would then be removed, leaving you with the fork and knife for the main dish. Afterwards, the fork and/or spoon above the plate would be used for the dessert course.

If the first course was a salad instead, the smaller salad fork would be put on the outside of the larger main course one. Silverware is always used from the far side of the plate to the near side, and knives should always be placed with the blade facing the plate.

Now onto napkin folding…

The Rose – mine is on the right.

The Cockscomb – mine on right.

The Fan

The 'Typical Drink Fold'

The Waterfall Fold

Group Photo.