Semester at Sea Q&A

What is Semester at Sea?

The amazing opportunity to live and study on the MV Explorer ship. Over 60 classes are offered every fall and spring semester on this ship, with professors and students coming from across the world. As students take classes, the ship travels the world, making stops in over 12 countries. The spring 2014 voyage began in California, making its way through Asia before rounding Africa and heading up the western coast of Africa to England.

The key feature of Semester at Sea is the shipboard community that forms throughout the voyage. From day one, shipgoers are taught the lessons of ubunto (I am, because of you). The philosophy is that everyone on the ship is who they are because of everyone else on the ship, and ‘No SASer left behind’ is emphasized at every pre-port meeting. The togetherness is palpable at every gathering and event.

semester at sea mv explorer ship

What did you do in each port?

Traveling while on Semester at Sea is done in three ways. They include:

  1. Traveling through Semester at Sea’s field programs. The advantage of traveling through Semester at Sea is that if anything happens, such as us arriving 12 hours late to a destination, the money paid will be reimbursed fully. The tour operators that SAS works with are fully vetted, and proven to be safe/reliable. The multi-day trips oftentimes  can cost upwards of $1000.
  2. Traveling with pre-planned large SAS groups. As soon as students were accepted into SAS, some began independently arranging travel groups through private tour groups. Oftentimes they would mimic SAS experiences for a fraction of the cost, although in the case of us arriving late to  a port, no reimbursements could be given. The only one of these I signed up for was a homestay with Mochan in Japan, the first port. I have no regrets about this experience – not only was I able to get through one of the most expensive countries we visited for under $30 a day including accommodations and food, but also I was provided an experience that I would not have been able to have on my own.
  3. Traveling independently. For 11 of the 12 countries, I had no idea what my plans were when I initially boarded on the ship. This was not a problem in the least, as many other students were also looking for travel partners. Groups start up and oftentimes travel in each country together, although I traveled with different people in each country. Personally I think small groups of 1-4 are best for getting along and delving into the cultures, as well as from a financial point of view.

What were your classes like?

Very good, but each one was extremely different. My professors were all extremely knowledgeable in their fields, and came from Vassar, Stanford, Michigan, UNC, and UVA. The classes were specifically tailored to each country we were docking at, making it a uniquely practical experience.

Time at sea in classes is split between A and B days. There are no weekends. However, during your time in port there are no classes. Because of the proximity of the countries in Southeast Asia, we had class for only 7 days during the month of February.

If you’re thinking of taking 15 credits, don’t do it unless it’s an absolute necessity. You will regret the extra workload – you want to enjoy your semester.

Are the studies difficult? Can you concentrate with so much going on?

The classes vary dramatically in difficulty and workload. While some friends had an easier time compared to their home universities, my classes were actually far more difficult. This was compounded by the fact that I traveled independently through every country, and was in a constant state of making plans for future countries. While I had the benefit of not being distracted by readily available WiFi, it still was very difficult at times – particularly the two days when I had a combined 23 pages of essays due.

What activities did you do on the ship?

While the MV Explorer may seem like a huge ship from the outside, it’s actually very small once it becomes your home. You run into the same people everyday, and it’s literally impossible not to make friends without being in your cabin all day.

You’ll make friends whom you’ll constantly be with. Crossfit is huge on the ship, with 2-3 workout times daily. There’s also morning yoga, worship groups, and intermural sports.  It’s extremely easy to start a club based on whatever your interests are.

Every night after dinner there are two lectures or events covering a wide variety of topics from the paradox of blue waters in coral reefs to social entrepreneurship talks by the founders of Serengetee. During the days leading up to each port, there are presentations about each country – starting with an introductory lecture, followed by insight lectures and language bootcamps. There was also a 72 hour film festival, separate talent shows for crew and students, an auction to benefit SAS, and open-mic nights where everyone supported their fellow shipmates. And that’s not to mention Sea Olympics and Neptune Day

My favorite on-ship activity was weekly family dinners. During the first week, students sign up to have extended families, and be matched with either the professors, staff, or lifelong learners. I was lucky enough to be paired with Nurse Lana and her husband Larry, who were an absolute hoot. Every time I got back from port I would be greeted with a note such as, “Life’s short – eat dessert first. Ice cream sundaes tomorrow my treat.” It was a lot of fun, and gave me a whole new perspective hearing about their travel and the occasional tale from the clinic.

Semester at sea extended family photo

How is the food?

That depends completely on what you mean. The food in each of the 12 countries was some of the best I’ve had in my entire life. You haven’t tasted pho until you’ve been to Vietnam, real tanjine until you’ve been to Morocco, and so on.

I’ll be honest – on ship food isn’t the greatest. Before SAS I heard tales about pasta and potatoes and was expecting it to be horrible. Upon arriving to the ship, I was surprised that it was actually somewhat tasty. During lunch and dinner there are always fresh salad and fruits, often steamed vegetables, and sometimes good dessert. Every dinner buffet line consists of one pasta dish, one potato dish, one grain, one vegetarian option, one meat, and a soup of the day.

I’m sure it’s really difficult to design a menu for 700+ students and staff based on whatever ingredients they pick up in each country. But overall the food is just repetitive over time, and after a while everything began tasting the same. I’m fairly sure that over the voyage there were at least 20 different names for the same dish – pasta and red sauce.

There’s also a pool bar upstairs that serves burgers, fries, pizzas, and smoothies – but those cost extra and that can add up quickly.

What kinds of students are aboard?

There’s no one type of SASer. While an overwhelming majority were studying liberal arts fields, there were a surprising number of STEM majors – particularly engineering. There were people who spent their time playing video games, writing poetry, or dancing. Some preferred eating the pasta and potatoes, while others spent the money to eat at the upstairs pool bar.

Despite our differences, I found the people on the ship to be some of the kindest, accepting people I’ve ever met. SASers are the kind of people who are willing to take the life we know, and turn it upside down completely while living on a ship and traveling in the world. Because of this, I’d say that we’re a pretty awesome kind of people.

semester at sea open mic night

What was your favorite country?

I plead the fifth. This isn’t so much me not wanting to answer as it is me not being able to answer. Countries are like children, and each one was special in its own unique, special way. Not enough can be said for how each country appealed in a different way – Vietnam for the absolutely mind-blowing food, India for my fantastic homestays with cooking classes, South Africa for its fantastic scenery, Morocco for the warmth of its people and generosity when sharing meals; the list goes on. I would go back to any of these countries in a heartbeat.

What was your least favorite country?

Very similar answer to above. Honestly I didn’t have any horrible experiences in any countries, beyond perhaps providing a local stimulus package with friends in Mauritius (paying $25 to go 1 mile in a taxi).

Did you get sick?

Yes, three times as a matter of fact.

  1. The first night from seasickness (along with about 50{3a5a0fd47fd42b6497167aecc6170a94848f1ba936db07c4954344fcfff1d528} of the ship).
  2. In Tokyo, I ate 3 meals of delicious food in 2 hours – more than my stomach could take. My fault entirely.
  3. Food poisoning in Hong Kong. A friend’s cousin treated us to an extremely fancy dinner at an upscale restaurant, and I had a miserable night. What can I say; my stomach is conditioned for street food.

What was the craziest thing you did?

Hitchhiking with two friends on the back of a woman’s electric fruit cart in Guilin, China. She looked at us as if we were lost puppies (which we were), and thought we were hilarious for asking her for a ride in the back of her cart. I was the only one who spoke any Chinese, but could only understand about 25{3a5a0fd47fd42b6497167aecc6170a94848f1ba936db07c4954344fcfff1d528} of what she was saying. She kept on asking me where we wanted to go, but I didn’t know the names of anywhere in the city in Chinese, which was even funnier to her. She stopped at home, unloaded her goods, and continued driving us for about 30 minutes until we reached the night market in Guilin. She wouldn’t accept any money, even when I offered to pay for her gas.

How much spending money should I bring?

For all 12 countries, students spent on average between $2000-$5000, maybe more depending on how many field programs they signed up for.  I spent roughly the lower amount as I tried to be an economical traveler. If you email me, we can talk specifics.

Was it worth the money? Are you glad you did it?

Full disclosure: I was fortunate enough to have been given a CY Tung scholarship for studying Sino-American relations. Therefore, studying at sea was almost as cheap as my home university.

Semester at Sea doesn’t come cheap.  That being said, keep in mind that the fee includes not only tuition, but also food, room/board, and misc fees (excluding the fuel charge).

I say with certainty that Semester at Sea is one of the best study abroad programs around. No other program can provide the practical learning and amazing experiences that SAS does, in particular learning about each country you visit as you travel the world. Even if you think it’s too expensive I encourage you to apply. Nearly 3/4 of people on the ship had some scholarship, and the Institute of Shipboard Education was great with aid. Apply for scholarships, but most importantly apply for SAS. You will not regret it.

Any tips on applying for scholarships?

Apply for as many of the Semester at Sea scholarships as you can, as well as for outside funding. I applied for six scholarships in all, and was fortunate enough to receive the CY Tung.  Be yourself and show why you would be a great addition to the shipboard community. Look up projects/videos/blogs from people who have previously received each scholarship, and try to understand what the goal of each scholarship is.  Most importantly, be yourself when filling out applications.

Is there enough time in each city?

It depends on what you mean by “enough time.” (See below)

How do you compare what you learned in Ghana to what you learned through Semester at Sea? 

According to the iceberg metaphor for culture, we initially see 10{3a5a0fd47fd42b6497167aecc6170a94848f1ba936db07c4954344fcfff1d528} of culture sticking out of the water- examples being customs and courtesies. The remaining 90{3a5a0fd47fd42b6497167aecc6170a94848f1ba936db07c4954344fcfff1d528} of the iceberg is hidden underneath, and includes values, priorities, and aspects of the culture which are not so straightforward.

With six days maximum in each country, it is impossible to understand the culture of each country. On Semester at Sea, you get a mere glimpse – a snapshot in the mind. Your six days in a country is often different than everyone else’s 6 days, and if you were to come back for another six days, you’d likely have an entirely different experience. The great thing about such short-term travel is that you’re on the ‘honeymoon phase’ in each country. Everywhere is new, exciting, and wonderful; there are likely no ‘lows’ during your time abroad. Semester at Sea is a sampler platter, helping you discover where they’d like to return to – and making the ultimate discovery that you’d like to return everywhere.

With YES Abroad, I lived for a year in Ghana. I came to feel like a local, with all of the up’s and down’s of living in African society included. Returning to Ghana on SAS was to return home; while I wouldn’t profess to fully understand Ghanaian culture, I feel as though I have a good grasp of their life and country overall. Returning to any of the SAS countries would feel entirely different, as there are so many places I haven’t yet seen within each one.

So what’s better, studying abroad/traveling for long-term in one place or traveling to many? It’s impossible to say really, both have their perks.

On YES Abroad, staying in one place gives us a deeper understanding of our host community, country, and ourselves. How did staying in many places for a few days each alter your view on the global community and your role in it? 

Casey Hudetz, our communication director, spoke the truth at convocation when he described how smiles are the world’s universal language. Despite learning a bit of Twi for the markets in Ghana, I predominantly spoke English there. However, in the majority of countries we visited on SAS, I knew none of the language besides ‘Hello’ and ‘thank you’.

Despite my unpreparedness, everyone I met went out of their way to help me in any way they could. I learned a lot about while there are perks to being perfectly prepared for traveling/life, sometimes it’s even more fun to have no expectations and just travel. I’ve discover that if you bring your smile along with you and treat locals nicely, they will take care of you as if you are their child.

I feel connected with every country I visited. Not only with every country, but also to its people. To everyone who responded to my smiles, and returned with one. From the Vietnamese children in Can Tho yelling ‘Hello’, the only English word they knew, to the Japanese woman who tried to help us return to Yokohama and ended up sending us on the right train towards the wrong direction for an hour.

I was worried when I returned to Malata market in Ghana; would the sellers remember me? The answer was a definitive yes, and I was given pounds upon pounds of fruit by the women upon my return. I have learned to stay connected.

What was your favorite part of Semester at Sea?

Getting back to the ship after an amazing six days in-port. The top is lit-up with a strand of white lights, and when you finally see them shining after your time away, it just feels like returning home. During dinner everyone recounts their experiences – each story completely different, yet all great. As the boat departs, sitting around the dinner table as land gets increasingly small, you come to appreciate just how special Semester at Sea is.

semester at sea spring 2014

What is Life on Semester at Sea?

  1. Eating all the pasta and potatoes you’ve never wanted
  2. Whale sightings as you watch the sunset during dinner
  3. Having classes only 7 days during the month of February
  4. Using Wikipedia for research and getting news from the ever-accurate Yahoo (Free Sites)
  5. Not having access to any social media and not minding one bit
  6. Perpetually not knowing the day of the week
  7. Having three continents of clothing in your daily wardrobe
  8. Being friends with the entire ship and being able to open up to anyone
  9. Skipping class because the curtains rocking in the union make you feel seasick
  10. A place where ‘Stand-Up Punning’ is actually considered a talent – and enough to make it into your first talent show
  11. Losing your homework in Viet Nam
  12. Eating breakfast with your professors
  13. Holding twelve kinds of currency in your wallet
  14. Having the greatest extended family in the world, and feeling like royalty when they treat you to pizza
  15. Spending 45 minutes to send one email using the ship’s WiFi (and 2 hours to send in blog posts)!
  16. Getting used to time changes as a semi-daily routine
  17. Monthly lifeboat drills
  18. Always looking forward to the next open mic night
  19. Shaving your head on Neptune Day
  20. Finding your own little ‘enclave’ or spot on the ship to make your own
  21. Making friends with everyone in the crew and feeling amazing when they begin knowing your name and small-chatting with you
  22. Remembering only how to say ‘Hello’ and ‘Thank you’ in foreign languages
  23. People paying over $200 for 10 boxes of Girl Scout cookies at auction night
  24. Signing each other’s world map at the end of the semester
  25. Feeling extreme amounts of pride for your sea (Bering!) and shipboard community
  26. Constantly reevaluating life and learning to place far more emphasis on interpersonal friendships- a fresh start of sorts

semester at sea shaved head globe

Semester at Sea: The Final Days

After Morocco, the ship had just four days at sea before disembarkation in Southampton.  The inevitable was fast approaching, and my friends and I could no longer push away thoughts of leaving any longer.

So with (most of) our classes done, my group got closer – both literally and physically. We began hanging out in a cosy little alcove under the second deck staircase, and spent much of our days hanging out there.

semester at sea friends

The alumni ball was the night of the 29th. The seas was pretty rocky; dancing was a hoot. The entire dance floor would shift back and forth as each wave hit. I’m pretty sure if there had been a dance party the first week, we’d have all fallen overboard. Thank goodness for getting our sea legs!

The final song of the dance was the Titanic song, My Heart Will Go On. We joined arms in a circle, rocking back and forth. It is really striking how close we’ve gotten in such a short time; although with the the lack of internet and such close quarters, it was probably only natural.

My friends sure do make me look good, don’t they?

semester at sea group photo alumni ball

semester at sea silly stair photo

Instead of yearbooks, most people bought world maps from the store and asked everyone to sign theirs. The first two days the maps gradually appeared, but by the third day you were practically stepping all over them. I put off signing them as long as I could, but ultimately had to begin saying my goodbyes.

Commencement for the seniors was a bit of a hoot, only on SAS…

semester at sea commencement

Packing was pretty difficult. Partly because the cabin was physically too small for us to both pack at the same time, but mostly because the bags I brought were absolutely tiny. I swear I didn’t buy that many souvenirs, they multiply like rabbits!

semester at sea outside cabin room and roommate

I’ve never had a roommate before, but Brandon was a pretty awesome guy. Despite his claims of ‘never reading’, he finished roughly 50 books during the four months.

As winners of Sea Olympics, the Bering Sea was given the ‘privilege’ of getting off the ship first. Our Assistant Dean Zaneeta called our sea, but Celeste and I weren’t ready to disembark. Our group huddled together and waited for the last groups to be called to finally disembark.

Was I ready to get off? I can’t really answer that. Part of me missed the freedom of land and promise of more than just pasta, potatoes, and peanut butter and jelly. But most of me was eager to continue at sea, my brain is almost still waiting for the next reembarkation. And as much as I thought during the voyage that I would miss the MV Explorer, I really won’t. The MV Explorer is a beautiful ship, but what I’ll truly miss is the people and ideas that it carries. From the overdramatic security briefings and cult-like Ubuntu Coffee social venture to the family dinners and open-mic nights, I’ll miss it all. But despite it all, saying goodbye to my closest friends wasn’t overly sad at the end of the day. It was a genuine ‘see you again.’

semester at sea fancy dinner photo

SAS Ghana: Malata Market Return

During my three days in Accra, every morning I passed through Malata Market. This market became a second home as I attended culinary school during my year abroad, and over time I learned the intricacies of the pathways and the African market system. As the year progressed, the sellers I visited most often came to become my closest friends.
I was a bit worried that they may have forgotten me during my time away, but as soon as I arrived to the market’s entrance, the kontomire sellers yelled my Ghanaian name and greeted me with an, “Eiii Kwadwo!” Most asked where I had been, many asked if I was now married, and several remarked (as a compliment) that I had gotten fat. Following are my favorite photos from my time in the market.

 

ghana malata market onion sellerghana accra malata market

ghana malata market seller eating lunchghana malata market pepper seller

On my last day in Accra, I printed several 4×6 photos from two years ago and gave copies to the women in the photos.

ghana malata market return avery segal

I left the market stocked with gifts: several bracelets, the above yellow apron, many mangos, at least ten pounds of papayas, and a lifetime’s supply of agushi (watermelon seeds). Malata Market has soul, and epitomizes the differences between large retail stores/supermarkets and a community shopping experience. For this I say that Malata will always be my home.

SAS: Ghana Highlights

Reunions: It was pretty awesome to have the opportunity to reunite with everyone whom I haven’t seen in two years. Some I was able to tell about my impending arrival, but I also thoroughly enjoyed the reaction of those whom I surprised. When I came knocking on Ida’s host mom’s door, she exclaimed, “Oh my- are you a ghost?!”

ghana host mom and avery

Above: Host Mom at home

Below: Auntie Charity, my culinary school teacher, at Flair

ghana flair cooking school teacher

Two of this year’s YES Abroad students in Cape Coast:

ghana yes abroad alumni and current students

The Food: It’s been at least two years since I’ve had solid Ghanaian food. Sure, I can make it, but the ingredients can be a bit difficult to find in the US, and time is pretty limited with college classes and in college, time is pretty limited. Following are several of my favorite dishes.

Grilled tilapia:

ghana grilled tilapia

Groundnut soup with omo tuo (peanut butter soup with rice balls)

ghana groundnut soup and omo tuo

Jollof rice (rice cooked in tomato stew) with fried chicken:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ghana jollof rice with chicken

Okra stew with goat meat:

ghana okra soup

Ezile Bay Village Ecolodge: I ended my return to Ghana with two days in Ezile Bay Village. This off the beaten path Akwidda ecolodge is a beach paradise. After planning over 10 countries, it was nice to do some good old fashioned relaxing (and soccer).

ghana beach soccer with kids

ghana ezile bay village beachkids

Cape Town: Langa Township

Under Apartheid, townships came to mean a residential area that confined non-whites (blacks, colored, or Indians) living near a residential community. When outside of designated areas or homelands, the black population was required to carry passbooks, and failure to produce them when asked for would lead to arresting. While I spent much time in the well-developed areas in Cape Town such as the waterfront, soccer stadium, and hiking paths, I also saw the other side of Cape Town and spent my weekend in Langa Township. What struck me the most about Langa was the inequality. Obviously there’s a difference between the inner-city and the townships, but even within the township there are huge disparities. On the street below were well-developed houses that could be in any American suburb, while not so far in the distance is the shantytown.

 

cape town langa township inequality langa towcape townnship shanties

Despite living in Ghana for 10 months, it never hit me that the ribbed pieces of metal that people often construct their businesses or homes out of are actually discarded shipping containers.

cape town langa township shanty construction

Following are the new government-funded apartments, at least some of the ones that could be finished before the government effectively ran out of money for the project.

langa township new government housing

On Sunday I went to church. Singing along proved to be extremely difficult (just see the lyrics below), until the entire congregation changed from psalms to an amazing rendition of One Love.

 

cape town langa township church

Barbecue is huge in the township; on nearly every block there seemed to be some.

Particularly interesting was the delicacy called ‘smileys.’ Look away vegetarians, before having their hair seared off with a hot iron rod and being boiled for several hours, no teeth show. After cooking, the sheep seems to be grinning. Township dwellers can’t get enough of smileys; boatloads of sheep heads are imported from New Zealand and other countries.

cape town langa township smilies sheep heads cape town smilies sheep heads smoked

My favorite part of the experience was the homestay. My mama was the best chef in all of Langa (I swear!) and ran a takeaway business from her house. She left her door open for most hours of the day, and there didn’t seem to be a single moment around mealtimes where there wasn’t a customer in the house. Everything she made was off the wall delicious, especially her beet salad, celebration rice, and stewed meat.

Cape Town: Hiking Lion’s Head Mountain

45 minutes into hiking Lion’s Head, I came to the realization that I was going around the mountain instead of up. I confusedly stopped a nearby hiking family walking the opposite direction to ask they were hiking up. They answered yes, so I turned around and joined the family for the next two hours. Following is a picture gallery from my day.

cape town lions head mountain hiking path cape town lions head mountain seaside cape town lions head mountain hiking rungs cape town lions head mountain road view cape town lions head mountain dog hiking cape town lions head avery segal cape town lions head mountain family photo cape town amarula dessert cocktail

We arrive in Ghana tomorrow! I’m experiencing a range of emotions, most of which revolve around excitement about seeing friends and family in the upcoming week. I can’t wait to debark!